Do you remember that last time a trusted friend told you “had” to see that show, try that restaurant, read that book?
Did you have high expectations only to be disappointed by the recommendations?Â
I, for one, do not get the hype about “Severance” or “Succession,” which several trusted friends have recommended. But I rave about “Shrinking,” and “The Studio,” and the same friends think I’m nuts.
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There’s just no accounting for taste, the saying goes.Â
This is especially true for restaurants. One person’s bucket-list dining experience is another person’s idea of a waste of money.
Still, whether they prefer classic French or Asian fusion, most foodies have a list of restaurants they dream of visiting; there’s a good chance several on that list have received a Michelin Star.Â
A Michelin star is not a guarantee of success in the restaurant business.
The curse of the Michelin Star
Restaurants that earn a Michelin Star do so based on five criteria, per the Michelin Guide: the quality of the ingredients, the harmony of flavours, the mastery of techniques, the personality of the chef as expressed through their cuisine and consistency across the entire menu and over time.
Restaurants that earn the designation usually receive a huge influx of attention and demand for reservations.Â
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But even the most acclaimed restaurants face particular challenges in this post-pandemic era. Increased food and labor costs, plus higher rents, have led to the closures of thousands of restaurants across the country.
You’d think high-end establishments would be able to avoid some of the typical industry pitfalls. However, restaurants with a Michelin Star or four aren’t immune to challenges and the accolades can even have unintended consequences..
Surprisingly, a study by University College London found that well-reviewed restaurants that have earned a Michelin Star are more likely to close than those that don’t have the award.
Even though the study looked at restaurants in New York, the authors concluded that recognition often bring with them higher costs associated with diners’ expectations of “luxury” ingredients and experiences. Landlords also often raise rent due to perceived success. Generally, the star just adds stress to an already chaotic work environment, leading some chefs to renounce the accolade, preferring to focus on food and hospitality.
Luce in San Francisco won international acclaim, but that wasn’t enough
Now San Francisco has one less restaurant to bring foodies to town: Luce, which featured upscale California- and Mediterranean-cuisine, suddenly closed its doors on Saturday, according to a report in The San Francisco Chronicle. Representatives for Luce have not shared a comment publicly about why.
The celebrated restaurant opened in 2008 with innovative French chef Dominique Crenn in charge. Under Crenn, Luce earned its Michelin Star in 2009
San Francisco, a world-class restaurant city, is home to some 30 restaurants with a Michelin Star designation, a big number considering the city has a population of just around 800,000. For comparison, Los Angeles has around 70 Michelin restaurants but a population of 3.8 million within the city limits.
Luce closed in 2020 during the pandemic era, but reopened in 2021 only to lose its Michelin Star that same year.Â
Crenn had left Luce several years prior to open her own spot—the three-Michelin-star Atelier Crenn—but two other renowned chefs followed her success. First, Melissa King, the winner of Bravo’s Top Chef All-Stars season 17, and then Rogelio Garcia, who is now at another Michelin-starred spot in California’s wine country.
Here’s hoping he escapes the Michelin curse.Â
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