In this day and age, it’s a wonder traditional sit-down restaurants survive at all.
With all of the elements necessary to run a restaurant — food costs, rent, transportation, labor — getting more expensive by the day, restaurant closings seem to be happening with the same frequency as restaurant openings.
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Places that have managed to stay relevant and keep serving for decades, like Hong Kong Restaurant in Dallas, are increasingly rare.
Restaurants serving Chinese food also have a unique spot in the U.S. culinary scene, and Chinese food is consistently one of the most most popular types of ethnic cuisine.
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“Americans fell in love with Chinese food not because of its gastronomic excellence, but because of its affordability and convenience. They preferred the quick and simple dishes of China while shunning its haute cuisine,” writes UC Irvine History Professor Yong Chen in his book, “Chop Suey, USA: The Story of Chinese Food in America.”
Chinese food was the first mass-consumed food in the U.S., and the abundance of Chinese restaurants in mid-20th century America was also a reflection of limited opportunities for Chinese Americans, according to Chen.
At the time, Chinese people were barred from many occupations, so they successfully turned Chinese food into a dominant force in the restaurant market, creating a critical lifeline for their community, according to Chen.
Over the years, Chinese restaurants have thrived in cities with vibrant Chinese immigrant populations like San Francisco and New York, but also in cities like Chicago and Dallas.
The oldest continuously operating Chinese restaurant in Dallas has closed forever.
Image source: Steve Russell/Toronto Star/Getty Images
Hong Kong Restaurant became a local landmark
Now Dallas’ oldest continuously operating Chinese restaurant, Hong Kong Restaurant, has closed permanently.
Bill Pon co-founded Hong Kong Restaurant in 1962 in the 9000 block of Garland Road in East Dallas.
Bill immigrated to the U.S. in 1928, arriving in California when he was 14. He worked in several restaurants in California’s Chinese restaurant hub, San Francisco, before moving to Dallas and opening his restaurant here, according to WFAA.
“Bill kind of worked his way up through the Chinese food scene in California. At one point, he was a chef at a hotel in San Francisco, where he was able to serve First Lady Eleanor Roosevelt,” said Dallas Asian American Historical Society Executive Director Stephanie Drenka.
Bill Pon’s grandson Justin told WFAA his grandfather had studied cooking around the world, at one point going back to China to refine his skills.
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In Texas, Bill became the first Asian American invited to become a member of the Texas Chefs Association.
“It was kind of his dream to open up restaurants. He had a lot of aspirations. He wanted to do cooking classes, and he did. He taught cooking classes, he’d have schools come in, and he’d teach kids how to make egg rolls and wontons,” Justin recalled.
“He was basically breaking social barriers to have a nice dining experience that people who weren’t familiar with the food could go and get acquainted with eating Chinese food, basically, at that time.”
Independent eateries like Hong Kong Restaurant face challenges
The Asian American Historical Society researched the restaurant extensively for a 2023 exhibition called Leftovers, which was focused on the history of early Chinese restaurants in Dallas.
The next-oldest Chinese restaurant in Dallas is believed to be Royal China, which celebrated its 50th birthday in 2024.
The closure of Hong Kong Restaurant had locals reflecting on the restaurant as a “warm, casual spot” that held a special place in their lives. Community members highlighted its cultural icon status and noted the personal bonds established across an eternity of meals.
Independent eateries like Hong Kong Restaurant face an uphill battle even in the best of times, and the current owners decided to retire.
According to the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics, just 34.6% of restaurants survive more than 10 years, as reported on Owner.com.
So for an independent business to last more than six decades is an achievement worthy of celebration.
Related: Beloved local family diner closing after nearly 40 years
